Small Town America

In May 16, 2018 we set out on this journey to see America in an unhurried pace.  The “big trip”

All Souls
Bellville, OH

starts when Jay begins riding his bike from Seattle to Savannah.  We are, however, still in the prequel to that adventure.  After attending a weekend Universalist Convocation in Bellville, OH we started our drive to the west coast on Monday, May 21.   We have been in no hurry, but we feel like we have covered a lot of ground. In four days we exited Ohio, crossed Indiana, Illinois and Iowa. We are now on the western side of South Dakota on the edge of the Badlands National Park.  We have logged about 1,200 over those four days.

Albert the Bull

As we travel we have made a point to see local roadside attractions.  Such attractions, we have learned, have been intentionally created to attract travellers to small towns where hopefully some out-of-town dollars will be spent. This search for American kitsch such as Albert the Bull, the World’s Largest Ball of Popcorn, the Pink Elephant with a Martini Glass or the World's Largest Ball of Paint has allowed up to develop a personal view, albeit limited, of small town America.

The small towns we have visited aren’t in any way similar to our hometown of Roswell, GA.  Large grain silos are as frequent as railroad tracks on the edge of town.  Besides visiting roadside attractions our primary interaction in these small towns is food shopping.  We have generally found food selections and fresh produce are limited and prices are higher than at home.  There is a trade off of no traffic and no traffic lights. 

We feel a bit like aliens out here.  Add the sheer extreme expanse of Iowa and South Dakota and you could easily conclude we are “strangers in a strange land.”

UniRoyal Gal, Helen
and Nando

We remain in observation mode.  However, we can conclude that America is truly a beautiful and diverse nation.  So far, so good.

UniRoyal Gal

We will post from time to time our experiences with roadside kitsch such as the Uniroyal gal in Peoria, IL. 

In the 1960’s the Uniroyal tire company commissioned the construction of 17-foot shapely Uniroyal statue to stand in front of tire shops.  During the swimsuit season, they are clad in a revealing red bikini.  Other times, as was our experience, they wear a modest skirt and blouse.  Either way, one can’t help but notice that these gals have great legs! 

First Stop - Universalist Convocation

Convocation Order of Service

The start date of our cross-country trip was selected so we could attend the Universalist Convocation in Bellville, OH.  It was only last year that we learned that Universalists (the second U in our Unitarian Universalist faith) have been holding yearly meetings since the early 1990’s.  These gatherings draw the faithful from churches east of the Mississippi.  Meetings have been held in the New England, Mid-Atlantic and Southern states.  Our first convocation in 2017 was held in the small Liberty Universalist Church (established 1848) in Louisville, MS.

Jay’s archiving work introduced him to these meetings.  Attending was a natural extension of his historical research.

Journey to Bellville, Ohio

Levi Jackson Wilderness Road
State Park

We drove and camped one night on our way to Ohio.  Our camping experience at Levi Jackson State Park was a mini journey in itself.   Threatening weather halted our drive earlier than we intended.  We were able to set up our tent just before the heavy rains came.

Upon arrival in Bellville, we stayed with Hayley and Chad, who offered us home hospitality.  Their dog Ralph and Nando at first got along just fine, but a tussle over a food dish resulted in us accepting the hospitality of another church member for our last day.

Universalist Convocation

Banner at All Souls

The yearly convocations are an earnest attempt by aging Universalists to maintain contact with their unique Universalist culture within the larger Unitarian Universalist Association.  The Unitarians and Universalists officially merged in 1961.

Early Universalists delivered a unique and uplifting promise of universal salvation to orthodox church congregants who were repeatedly assured that their sinful nature would  result in eternal

People Attending Convocation

damnation.

The modern version of Universalism is “Love is Love.” All are included in that love.  The text is identical to the general UU message, but the Universalists deliver it with their retained sense of sincere spirit and their heartfelt tradition of inclusiveness.

We expanded our involvement in this Universalist Convocation movement.  Jay accepted the invitation to be President and Helen volunteered to serve as Secretary.  There is clearly more to learn about the Universalist side our religion.  Offering our talent and time to extend the life of these meetings will give others and us more opportunities to experience Universalism in its natural state.

All Souls Church Bellville

Rev Humphrey (Left - dark suit) at Ordination

The convocation was held at All Souls Church, established in 1894.  At the Sunday service, Rev. William Humphrey, an exceptional individual, was formally ordained as the church’s minister.

The Wait Is Over

About seven years ago, this blog was established with an intent as the name implies to see America One Spoke at a Time.   That journey finally commences.

We begin the trip on May 16, 2018 by driving our Prius across the country.  Our first stop is a Universalist Church Convocation in Ohio.  We then meander across the country taking in interesting sights.

By early June we will begin the adventure in La Push, Washington.  We will follow the Northern Tier and North Lakes maps from Adventure Cycling until we hit Michigan's upper peninsula.  After visiting family in the lower peninsula we will head southeast toward Richmond, Viriginia, using Googlemaps bike navigation.  From there we pick up the East Coast Greenway to Savannah.

We expect to be on the road for 10 - 12 weeks.

Genesis 

Inspiration

The genesis of the idea of cycling across America was planted in Jay's head more than 40 years ago when he hitchhiked from New York to Los Angeles and back to the east coast via Canada.

He saw a lone cyclist, similar to the photo on the right, and said, "I need to do that someday."

Well, between "then" and "someday" was college, work, marriage, kids and all the other sundry events that fill our lives.  It was a good life, but now "someday" has arrived.

This cycle adventure is not, however, the youthful solo journey originally envisioned.  Helen, an

Sweet Boy Nando

adventurous soul herself, said, "Hey, I want to go, too!"  Since marrying in 2004, we have travelled the world together.  This adventure should be no different.  Helen, a day rider, offered to drive our Prius as a SAG Wagon.

We had earlier experimented with Helen as a SAG driver on the Natchez Trace when Jay rode the Trace with fellow church members.  Jay had also done a solo Trace ride.  Hmmmm....solo or supported.  When you add into the mix our 80 lb. dog Nando, a supported ride became the ticket.

Besides, if we go, he goes!

RV vs. Carbon Footprint

An earlier version of this trip included purchasing an RV.  After nearly two years of looking and considering sizes, options, etc., we simultaneously reached our epiphany.  "No way!"  The RV was a big financial investment and offered little value to us outside of this coast-to-coast trip.

Besides, we drive hybrid cars, recycle and take seriously our obligations to be good stewards to our Blue Boat Home...Mother Earth.

So we sold our old Prius and purchased a new 2018 Prius as well as investing in updated camping equipment. Jay also found that parts for his 20 year old Trek 5200 were no longer manufactured, so he purchased a new bike.

Americana 

Mount Rushmore in South Dakota

The sights we hope to see on our trip out west and then back to the east coast include the classics such as Mount Rushmore, the Little Big Horn battlefield, Yellowstone National Park and true roadside kitsch such as Salem Sue - World's Largest Fiberglass Cow, The World's Largest Sandhill Crane and other oddities that make up the American landscape.

Salem Sue in Montana

We are also "open for conversation."  We hope to engage others on the road, listen to their stories and share ours.  We share here a closing reading read at our last church covenant group by Robert Fulghum, UU minister and author. 

"Every person passing through this life will unknowingly leave something and take something away. Most of this “something” cannot be seen or heard or numbered or scientifically detected or counted. It’s what we leave in the minds of other people and what they leave in ours. Memory. The census doesn’t count it. Nothing counts without it." 

How to Follow our Blog

We hope to post a new blog entry about two to three times per week.    Our intent is to share the color of the adventure and not the mechanics of mileage, weather and where we ate, although  some of that information will appear.   It will take a few blog posts for us to find "our voice" so please be patient with us.

To receive an email version of new blog posts  

1. Submit your email in the Follow by Email.  
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Seven Lazy Days on the Natchez Trace

Short video of my self contained bike ride of the Natchez Trace in October 2010. For those planning a ride, gives an idea of what to expect, types of camping/lodging available, sights to see, etc. Different music for each day.

Natchez Trace Solo Ride Comments

I had the great fortune to enjoy a solo, self-SAG tour for the Natchez Trace October 16 – 22, 2010. I have posted daily blog entries of the ride in part to help others planning a similar ride to benefit from the experiences of a fellow rider. There were many questions when I started my planning.

This ride was my longest self-contained ride so I scanned the Internet for blogs and travel logs seeking tidbits and insider information that would aid in my planning. There was lots of information, but I was never fully satisfied with my findings. Hopefully the blog entries and list of summary points below will be a helpful guide for your planning.

Note: Click on photos to see enlarged version.

The Natchez Trace Parkway is a treasure in our national park system. As a national park, the Trace is free of billboard clutter as well as the associated food/lodging services typically advertised on those billboards. Planning is, therefore, needed.

Suggested resources include:

• The Natchez Trace National Park Service (NPS) website and free NPS information
• Glen Wanner’s guide book “Bicycling the Natchez Trace”
• The Natchez Trace Travel website
• Google searches related to the Trace and bike riding/touring

My evening stops below were selected based on a daily ride of 60 – 70 miles and the convenience of the stop to the Trace. Primarily I camped, but was very glad to have a motel stop in the middle of the tour.

• Day 1 Rocky Spring NPS Campground mile 54.8
• Day 2 Ratliff Private Campground mile 123.7
• Day 3 Jeff Busby NPS Campground mile 193.1
• Day 4 America’s Best Value Motel mile 266.0
• Day 5 Colbert Ferry Bike-only Campground mile 327.3
• Day 6 Meriwether Lewis NPS Campground mile 385.9
• Day 7 End of Trace (traveled home) mile 442.0

Other Points:

• Spring or fall is the best time for touring the Trace. I rode 100 miles of the Trace one summer day several years ago. The heat was intense. Other summer ride blogs mentioned the bane of mosquitoes, gnats and other pests.
• The road surface of the Trace is very good to excellent. Between miles 160 – 190 the surface is a little rough by comparison, but still a good ride.
• My carbon fiber bike with 700 x 25 tires did just fine.
• I pulled a Yak BOB (Beast of Burden) vs. panniers.
• Traffic is very light except near Jackson and Tupelo. Cautious riding is required.
• I opted to ride Natchez to Nashville to mimic the traditional walking route of the original Kaintucks. Either way works. I did find that the many road side historic markers neatly unfolded the story of the Trace in this north bound direction.
• The southern section of Trace is pretty flat with low to moderate rolling hills. The northern tier in Tennessee is a different story. Still lots of low to moderate rolling hills, but interspersed are some long, grinding hills that will require some climbing gears and patience. Due to this hillier terrain, I planned fewer daily miles in this section.
• Well-maintained mileage markers situated on the right side of the road heading north reduced the need to track mileage on my bike computer. The bike computer was a good asset when leaving the Trace in search of supplies, since NPS information and Wanner’s book provide mileage distances to stores, restaurants, lodging, etc.
• Trace mileage markers run from Mile 1 to Mile 442. Adding my side trips, I rode a total of 485 miles.
• Information from the National Park Service (NPS) (800.305.7417) includes: (1) glossy tri-fold with a full map of the Trace, (2) letter containing information on NPS and private campgrounds, bicycling rules, mileage locations for supplies/food, public transportation, mileage for drinking water, bike shops. Park service literature also indicates when water sources are turned off during winter months.
• As well as using the great information from the NPS, I relied on Wanner’s book. His book provides nice background stories, information on hills climbs, water/supply locations, etc.
• I carried two bike-mounted water bottles and frequently filled one or both of the one liter plastic soda bottles I carried on my BOB trailer for an extra water supply.
• Based on the distances off the Trace for restaurants noted in Wanner’s book, I either rode off the Trace for a restaurant midday meal or carried food for lunch.
• Also using Warner’s book, I located supermarkets where I could purchase food bars, apples, carrots, foil-packed tuna/chicken, fig bars, Ramen noodles. etc. I typically ditched the Ramen noodle flavor pack and mixed the Ramen noodles in with a Lipton chicken noodle dry mix. I discovered a Pad Thai noodle meal at a Kroger in Tupelo that proved to be most satisfying in taste and quite filling.
• The service station/store at mile 193.1 (NPS Jeff Busby campground) is closed.
• There is huge shopping mall off the Trace at mile 262 (at the Natchez Trace Visitor Center) at the northern end of Tupelo. I stayed at the America’s Best Value motel (662.842.4403) here, had a steak dinner and re-supplied at a full service Kroger supermarket.
• Heading north, there is a left-hand turn just before the visitor center that takes you to the motel. Because it's tricky to find, I suggest printing and bringing a Google map of the ride from the Visitor Center to America’s Best Value motel.
• I carried a full week’s supply of oatmeal and coffee for breakfast and carried two days of dinner meals. Supermarket stops allowed me to add fresh fruit and restock my pantry.
• Breakfast and dinner were prepared at the campsite cooked with my Whisper lite stove.
• My unofficial observation is that I used about 2 – 3 ounces of fuel each day for these meals. I carried a 22 ounce fuel bottle and had fuel left over at the end of the ride.
• I stopped and read just about every Historic Site marker. These markers were not on my ride sheet and thus appeared to me rather serendipitously.
• Whenever there was opportunity to wander the old Trace trail noted in the historic marker, I took that opportunity.
• At mile 375 there is a 2.5 mile section of the original Trace sufficiently paved in a pebble path that allows a bike to traverse it without problem. You get the real sense of the Trace deeply tunneling through the forest on this short section. Highly recommended.
• Another 2 mile section of the Trace at mile 401.4 (Tobacco Farm) is not paved.
• All the National Park Service (NPS) campgrounds are free on a first come first served basis. I was off the Trace between 4:30 – 5:00pm and had no problem finding an open spot. Most spots were filled with RVs of varying sizes and shapes.
• All the NPS and private campgrounds at which I stayed had a picnic table which was very convenient for meal preparation, socializing, reading, journal writing, etc.
• The restrooms in the NPS campgrounds and along the Trace are clean and provide access to drinking water.
• Not to diminish enthusiasm for a future search, I was unable to find any power outlets at the NPS campgrounds (Rocky Spring, Jeff Busby and Meriwether Lewis) or at the bike only campground at Colbert Ferry.
• The private campground at Ratliff offered full services at a site different from the primitive campground abutting the parking lot by the boat ramp. The primitive campground was $5.00.
• The store and small restaurant at the Ratliff Campground (601.859.9586) closes at 6:00pm. If you arrive after closing time, the campground is adjacent to the parking lot near the comfort station.
• I encountered only a handful of riders. I always stopped and chatted, swapped information, took photos, got e-mail addresses so we could exchange photos.
• Cell phone coverage (Verizon) was spotty in some areas.

Day 7: Natchez Trace Self Contained Ride

Last Day on the Trace. The weather was again absolutely beautiful. The Trace, however, tossed up a number of long and challenging climbs on this last day.

I had decided to do a northbound ride (Natchez to Memphis) primarily to mimic the “traditional” walking direction of the many Kaintucks who brought the Trace into the American Experience. In my pre-ride Internet searches, I discovered some people recommended this northbound direction to better prepare for the Trace climbs found in Tennessee. I believe that riders willing to dedicate a week to cycle 450+ miles are capable of the Trace climbs regardless of the direction taken. My recommendation is not to allow terrain to influence the Trace direction of choice. Enjoy and decide on direction based on factors related to overall goals and transportation support.

Historic markers in this section do not appear with the same frequency as seen in the southern section of the Trace. I continued, however, to stop whenever an opportunity arose to take in more Trace history and color.

Mile 390: Phosphate Mine is now a defunct shell of its former self. The mine, with its mini railway called the Dinkey Line, was once an active industry that supplied fertilizer to southern farmers. The wealth of this mine came from shellfish that gave up the ghost 400 millions ago. Another nod to the enormous history found along the Trace.

Mile 391: After a short, sharp climb, I stopped at Hollow Falls and walked the trails to the base of the falls in the hollow. It was a delightful fall day and my touring time was coming to an end so I spent a few extra moments just absorbing the serene ambiance.

Other stops today included SheBoss and Old Trace Drive Tobacco Farm. The tobacco barn at this last stop was filled with curing tobacco. There were recorded messages from authentic southern farms at small information kiosks outside and inside the barn that told the story of tobacco farming. The section of the Old Trace here starts as paved, but quickly turns to loose gravel and a bike-unfriendly surface. I opted to return to the paved Trace and continue my journey to Nashville.

Mile 404: I lingered quite a long time at Jackson Falls. I walked the one mile hiking trail to Baker Bluff. The hike was an “okay” diversion that required a return trip along the trail or a hike up the Trace back to Jackson Falls. The great “discovery” of my hike was a long, unhurried and pleasant conversation with Marlena and John from Sunnyvale, CA. Much like the retired Dallas gang I encountered at Sweetwater Branch the previous day, Marlena and John were enjoying the timelessness of retirement. Their motor trip started in San Francisco. When I met them, they had traveled to Boston, Manhattan and Washington DC. They were now exploring the Trace and planned to head to San Antonio before returning home. We wished one another safe travels and parted ways.

More stops included Gordon House and Ferry Site. At the Gordon House, I shared in more conversation with two retired couples who were touring the Trace. I was impressed when they climbed into their high performance Corvettes and roared back onto the Trace ala Route 66 style.

Just before Garrison Creek, I paused to chat with a colony of artists painting landscapes. The art director indicated he had hiked the Trace some time ago, painting as he went. Vocation and passion . . . what a wonderful combination.

Just past Garrison Creek (Mile 427) I started a long climb, but by mile 432, I was running primarily downhill to the final 442 mile marker.

This last section of the Trace includes the double arch bridge over TN 96. Views from the bridge are fabulous. The best viewing of the bridge is from the Birdsong Hollow on the north side of the bridge.

And then . . . it was over. My lovely wife Helen greeted me at the final 442 marker. We snapped a few photos at the Trace end and then motored a short distance to a local landmark, the Loveless Café/Motel, for few more photos.

The bike, BOB and gear were neatly packed back into our little Prius. We spent that day and the next touring Nashville before driving back to our home in the northern suburbs of Atlanta.

Hmmmm . . . what next?

Total mileage: 60 / average 12.3

Day 6: Natchez Trace Self Contained Ride

Today was another day of wonderful weather that was simply ideal for cycling. I was up about 7:00am and on the Trace by 8:00am. Shortly after leaving Colbert Ferry, I crossed the Tennessee River. My photos do little justice to the wide expanse and grandeur of the river. As a cyclist, it is a simple matter to dismount and linger a few moments to absorb and enjoy a sight. I snapped more pictures and considered again what a great day it was to ride. If fact, any day you ride your bike is a great day.

Shortly after crossing the Alabama – Tennessee state boundary, I encountered two southbound cyclists on a truly marvelous adventure. Jay and Ginny were from Seattle, WA. They had started their odyssey in early September. An Amtrak train brought them eastward to Albany, NY. Car rides took them to Canada where they rode from Quebec down the north side of the St. Lawrence River to Montreal and again to Washington, DC where they rode the C&O Towpath northward, connected with the Great Allegheny Passage and rode that path to just south of Pittsburgh, PA. Another car ride took them to Nashville, where they started their southbound trek on the Natchez Trace. The ultimate destination on this fine October day was the city of angels (Los Angeles, CA) in time for Thanksgiving.

They were clearly serious and committed riders, but toted the most unconventional gear. . . buckets! Mounted on their seat post brackets, Jay pointed out that one should never leave home without one’s bucket. While on the bike, the buckets provided storage for their sleeping bags. Once stopped a bucket was a seat, a wash tub for clothes and body. Buckets propped up bikes when repairs were necessary. Jay and Ginny also pulled BOBs that included inflatable air mattresses. All the comforts of home!

We chatted some more, wished one another happy cycling and then pedaled away down the open road.

Not much further down the road I encountered J.D. Robb walking the Trace. John, a former Wall Street trader from Dallas, noted that he had walked the Appalachian Trail (Trail Name “Hell on Bad Wheels”) and now had a goal to become the first person to hike all 11 national scenic trails and to do so for the benefit of others who are in need. Visit his website TrekkingforaCause.com and click on the link “See all updates from BadWheels' Journal.” John completed his Trace trek about month after we met. With or without a bucket, amazing things are possible!

Mile 352: Stopped at McGlamery Stand to risk a climb up a fire tower noted in Wanner’s book. Wanner’s warning is “climb at your own risk.” My recommendation is don’t even attempt an accent. The wooden stairs are missing and a successful scaling of the metal apparatus has two chances…slim and none! I diverted my attention to wandering the recently decorated graveyard at the base of the tower.

Back on my bike, I pedaled on to Collinwood for lunch. Collinwood is one of the few towns immediately adjacent to the Trace.

Mile 345: I lingered in the Wayne County Visitor Center in Collinwood for quite some time. Betty, a volunteer there, took me on a delightful tour of the center. Swapping stories of adventure, Betty related how she and her husband had once built a boat and floated/motored down the Mississippi and in-land waterways. Included among the artifacts at the center is the poster for a 1960 Zachary Scott movie. The Turner Movie Classic website gives a synopsis of the film:

“In the 1830s, in the wilderness area between Natchez, Mississippi and Nashville, Tennessee known as The Natchez Trace, ruthless highwayman and slave trader John A. Morrow robs and kills travelers. When Morrow kills a plantation owner, the man's daughter Sue and her fiancé Russ conspire to stop him. By volunteering to become one of Morrow's band, Russ learns that Morrow plans to build an empire of thieves and become their dictator. Eventually Russ thwarts Morrow's plans and causes his downfall.” A thriller, I am sure.

Lunch was at Chad’s Family Restaurant. Re-supply was at the local Piggly Wiggly.

Mile 363: I stopped at the Sweetwater Branch historic site and engaged in a lengthy conversation with a Dallas-based gang of friends touring the Trace in their large RV. I asked if I could see the inside of the RV and was warmly welcomed. We chatted and idled time away without a care for time or distance. I asked, “How far do you travel each day?” The response was, “Sixty miles.” My retort, “Me too.” I further asked when they planned to be back in Dallas. "Whenever." Good answer.

Mile 375: The best part of my tour without question was my short departure from the Natchez Trace to ride a section of the actual old Natchez Trace. A small section, about 2.5miles, of the old Trace is sufficiently paved to support bike traffic. This short ride gave a real sense of what it must have been like to travel the Trace so long ago. Deep woods and the sounds of birds and other animals provided a sense of isolation. Could the original engineers who labored to open this road in the late 1700’s ever image that one day a carbon fiber bike carrying a spandex-clad rider would make use of their labor? Don’t miss this Trace adventure!

Encountered several long climbs this day that required looking for lower gears. All doable.

Mile 385: The ride to the camp sites at the National Park Service Meriwether Lewis campground was longer then I had anticipated (.4 miles). The campground is named for the Meriwether Lewis of “Lewis and Clark” fame. In October 1809, Lewis was found dead of a gunshot wound in what was then call Grinder Stand. A large monument in Pioneer Cemetery marks the spot of his grave. A replicate of Grinder Stand is located nearby.

I set up my tent among a sea of RVs and discovered the gang of four riders whom I had met earlier at Colbert Ferry. There was more lively conversation that evening; my last evening on the Trace.

Total Mileage 65 / Average 12.3