Day 7: Natchez Trace Self Contained Ride

Last Day on the Trace. The weather was again absolutely beautiful. The Trace, however, tossed up a number of long and challenging climbs on this last day.

I had decided to do a northbound ride (Natchez to Memphis) primarily to mimic the “traditional” walking direction of the many Kaintucks who brought the Trace into the American Experience. In my pre-ride Internet searches, I discovered some people recommended this northbound direction to better prepare for the Trace climbs found in Tennessee. I believe that riders willing to dedicate a week to cycle 450+ miles are capable of the Trace climbs regardless of the direction taken. My recommendation is not to allow terrain to influence the Trace direction of choice. Enjoy and decide on direction based on factors related to overall goals and transportation support.

Historic markers in this section do not appear with the same frequency as seen in the southern section of the Trace. I continued, however, to stop whenever an opportunity arose to take in more Trace history and color.

Mile 390: Phosphate Mine is now a defunct shell of its former self. The mine, with its mini railway called the Dinkey Line, was once an active industry that supplied fertilizer to southern farmers. The wealth of this mine came from shellfish that gave up the ghost 400 millions ago. Another nod to the enormous history found along the Trace.

Mile 391: After a short, sharp climb, I stopped at Hollow Falls and walked the trails to the base of the falls in the hollow. It was a delightful fall day and my touring time was coming to an end so I spent a few extra moments just absorbing the serene ambiance.

Other stops today included SheBoss and Old Trace Drive Tobacco Farm. The tobacco barn at this last stop was filled with curing tobacco. There were recorded messages from authentic southern farms at small information kiosks outside and inside the barn that told the story of tobacco farming. The section of the Old Trace here starts as paved, but quickly turns to loose gravel and a bike-unfriendly surface. I opted to return to the paved Trace and continue my journey to Nashville.

Mile 404: I lingered quite a long time at Jackson Falls. I walked the one mile hiking trail to Baker Bluff. The hike was an “okay” diversion that required a return trip along the trail or a hike up the Trace back to Jackson Falls. The great “discovery” of my hike was a long, unhurried and pleasant conversation with Marlena and John from Sunnyvale, CA. Much like the retired Dallas gang I encountered at Sweetwater Branch the previous day, Marlena and John were enjoying the timelessness of retirement. Their motor trip started in San Francisco. When I met them, they had traveled to Boston, Manhattan and Washington DC. They were now exploring the Trace and planned to head to San Antonio before returning home. We wished one another safe travels and parted ways.

More stops included Gordon House and Ferry Site. At the Gordon House, I shared in more conversation with two retired couples who were touring the Trace. I was impressed when they climbed into their high performance Corvettes and roared back onto the Trace ala Route 66 style.

Just before Garrison Creek, I paused to chat with a colony of artists painting landscapes. The art director indicated he had hiked the Trace some time ago, painting as he went. Vocation and passion . . . what a wonderful combination.

Just past Garrison Creek (Mile 427) I started a long climb, but by mile 432, I was running primarily downhill to the final 442 mile marker.

This last section of the Trace includes the double arch bridge over TN 96. Views from the bridge are fabulous. The best viewing of the bridge is from the Birdsong Hollow on the north side of the bridge.

And then . . . it was over. My lovely wife Helen greeted me at the final 442 marker. We snapped a few photos at the Trace end and then motored a short distance to a local landmark, the Loveless Café/Motel, for few more photos.

The bike, BOB and gear were neatly packed back into our little Prius. We spent that day and the next touring Nashville before driving back to our home in the northern suburbs of Atlanta.

Hmmmm . . . what next?

Total mileage: 60 / average 12.3