Monday, October 18, 2010

Day 4: Natchez Trace Self Contained Ride

There were few services available near the Trace for this day’s ride, so I filled all my reserve water bottles and made my supply of snack food handy. There will also be no restaurant lunch stop today.
I used my REI-purchased web nettings that secured my sleeping bag to my seat post rack and my BOB water proof bag to store my copy of Wanner's guide book, water bottles and snack supply. Although I had a handle bar pack, I carried my map, Blackberry and other light articles in the pack. I found the netting provided the easiest and quickest configuration to access gear.

I had developed a ride sheet for this tour using Wanner's books, material from the National Park Service, Internet searches and material from other cyclists who had completed a Trace tour. My ride sheet primarily outlined my evening stops, water and food sources, bike shops, ranger stations and the occasional point of interest. I used Wanner's book on the tour primarily to add more "color" to the historic marker information and help explore off Trace services. Although, as I noted in earlier blogs, Wanner's off Trace directions did not float my boat.

I left Jeff Busby around 8:30am under overcast skies. The Trace road surface again returned to a smooth riding surface. The terrain was flat with only slow moderate climbs. There was little to no traffic. And everywhere it appears the Trace was immaculately manicured; no road side trash, grass well trimmed…a wonderful sense of being given a treasure to cycle. I also had a chance to walk a section of the Old Trace.

Mile 233: Historic markers visited before pulling into Witch Dance included Pigeon Post, Line Creek and Bynum Mounds. Witch Dance has a nice comfort station, picnic tables, camping facilities and trail head for a horse trail into the Tombigee National Forest. And how can one not stop at a location name "Witch Dance?" The National Park Service signage relates that:

"The very name conjures visions of eerie midnights, swirling black capes and brooms stacked against a nearby tree. The old folks say the witches gathered here to dance and wherever their feet touched the ground the grass withered and died never to grow again. Impossible? Maybe so, but look around. Look for a hidden spot where no grass grows."

I had lunch and then stretched out on a picnic table for a short nap that was soon interrupted by rain drops. The dark clouds from the morning had lingered so I reconfigured my bike for foul weather and got my Gore Tex rain jacket at the ready. More dark clouds gathered, more rain threatened. It was going to be what it was going to be. I got back on the Trace on my way to Tupelo. This evening's stop was a motel in North Tupelo.

Despite the threat of rain, little fell so I continued my stops at historic markers that included Chickasaw Agency, Hernando Desoto, Monroe Mission Station, Tockshish, Chickasaw Council House and Black Belt. The information at these historic sites continued the story I had read earlier. Changes in road making, traffic, the introduction of the steamboat and Indian removal had diminished the importance of Natchez Trace as a key thoroughfare for commerce.

The Natchez Trace was resurrected by Congressman Jeff Busby of Mississippi who proposed a parkway as a way to give tribute to the original travelers and the importance of this forgotten highway in the development of America.
The Daughters of the American Revolution extended the commitment to remember our past by placing monuments along the trace. The picture to the right is one such monument near French Camp. The Civilian Conservation Corps form in the Great Depression surveyed the route in 1934. Construction began in 1939.

My “rain luck” held the last 33 miles to Tupelo. Rain clouds remained north of me making the road wet when I arrived, but keeping me relatively dry. Near Tupelo (mile 250 – 260), there was heavy traffic and a great deal of Trace construction. Daylight had dimmed considerably. I was disappointed in myself when I noticed a southbound cycling couple pass me with their front head light set to flash mode. I rode with a red rear flashing light, but still had my headlamp in my BOB waterproof bag. Dang.

By mile 261, I could feel the pull of the motel and warm bed pulling on me.
Mile 266: Mile 266 is the location of the Natchez Trace Visitor Center. But the threat of rain and fatigue helped make my decision to end the day's ride. During my trip planning, I had booked the hotel room at the America's Best Motel (662.842.4403; 897 Harmony Lane, Tupelo, MS) based on a recommendation from Wanner’s guide book. I turned right just at the Natchez Trace Visitor center to head to the hotel. I needed assistance from the Blackberry GPS to finally navigate across business N. Gloster Road to the motel. Blake, the hotel manager with whom I had booked my room by phone,was there at check in. Just a wonderfully warm and caring person.

As I closed the door to my motel room, the heavens opened with a heavy and continuous downpour. I headed for a hot shower and rest before venturing out for dinner.

The motel is in the heart of a mall shopping district with plenty of restaurants and a Kroger grocery store. I was able to do laundry at the motel (needed to supply my own detergent). A well deserved steak dinner with a beer or two at Logan's Roadhouse (walking distance) was followed by a very restful night’s sleep.
Total Mileage: 75 / avg 13.6

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