Now in California

 Jay has now cycled 800 miles. That effort put us in Crescent City in northern California. As we mentioned in our last blog, this cycling trek has been a challenge to Jay. Every day he faces a series of unrelenting hill climbs. This last section from Astoria, OR to Crescent City, CA, required Jay to climb 24,070’ over the rugged Oregon coast. He averages about 50 miles a day climbing over 2,500’ each day. The mileage and terrain have had an impact. When Jay rolled into our hotel in Crescent City yesterday, he was so exhausted Helen had to help him carry his bike up the 18 steps to our room. He now accepts that at 72 years old he has slowed down since his ride from Seattle to Savannah at the spry age of 67.  

Despite the effort, there are vistas and views that one cannot see while zooming down the coast in a car or RV. Unlike the east coast (America One Spoke At a Time: 2021) that Jay rode with Helen’s support in 2021, the Washington and Oregon west coast is free of multi-million dollar estates or boardwalks with cotton candy and salt water taffy. The west coast is a natural environment. We have learned that legislative action was responsible for keeping the coastline free of development. Rather, the west coast is dotted with large beaches and impressive rock formations. 

At this time of year (July and August), this section of the west coast is free of rain with moderate temperatures. In a conversation with a local bike shop owner, we revealed “we are not from around here” when we expressed how cold it was. Temperatures sometimes reach the low 80s, but all this week the high has been 73 during the day, reaching in the mid 40s at night, which is pretty chilly when you’re sleeping in a tent. Jay typically rides with his neon yellow jacket which keeps him warm and gives him higher visibility on the busy US 101. 

The bike shop owner in Bandon, OR shared, with amusement, that they were experiencing a “heat wave.” Beach goers are typically seen wearing hoodies. You don’t know until you go. This trek down the west coast has given us experiences with our fellow travelers that we couldn’t have imagined if we stayed comfortably ensconced on our back deck in Roswell, GA. In addition to Americans and Canadians, we met two riders from France and a family from Israel. 

Jay took Thursday as a rest day in Lakeside, OR. In the local literature, Lakeside was once the “go-to place for the 1930s Hollywood crowd.” That sheen wore off a long time ago. However, we met two lovely people, Dennis and Denise, who opened the Dune Rider Café in April. Dennis is the cook, and he made the best crispy hash brown potatoes we’ve ever eaten! Coffee is $1. Please stop in if you’re ever in Lakeside. 

On that rest day we went to Reedsport, a few miles north, to see the Umpqua Discovery Center. Umpqua is the name of a native American tribe. The Discovery Center exceeded our expectations and more! The center contained beautifully painted dioramas of American peoples experiences. We are so glad we took the time to visit this gorgeous, educational center. 

Sunday we drove by a Pirate Festival in Brookings, OR. Both Jay and Helen stopped (at different times) to see the attraction. Lots of “beads and trinkets” like the midway at any festival, but the vendors were all dressed like pirates! Quite a few of the attendees also dressed up for the occasion. This pirate has a real peg leg. Aaargh!

While in Crescent City we took the opportunity to visit Trees of Mystery in the Redwood National Park. Wow! What an experience! We walked the trails and saw giant redwoods, spruce, Douglas Fir, Hemlock and Red Alder. We walked on the aerial netted suspension bridges that were 50-100’ high and up to 130’ long. We took a gondola ride up to a large observation deck. One tree, a Redwood over 300’ tall and 19’ in diameter, has a name, the Brotherhood of Man tree. There are lots of signs and wood carvings along the trail, and a 5-room museum full of Indian artifacts, and of course, the obligatory gift shop. 

Our lodging, the Curly Redwood Lodge on Highway 101, was built in 1957 from a single giant redwood tree that produced 57,000 board feet of lumber. It is directly across the street from a marina. Last night we thought a neighboring room had a phone that kept ringing and ringing and ringing. We called the front desk and were told that muffled noise was the fog horn at the marina!

The sign in front of our hotel in Crescent City, California, directly across from the marina.

Riding on the gondola at Trees of Mystery

Paul Bunyan and Babe the Blue Ox at Trees of Mystery

Face carvings at Trees of Mystery

Info about Redwood bark

Helen and Jay

Four foot high fire engine red geraniums in front of the bike shop Bandon, OR

One of several lighthouses along the Oregon coast